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In the past decade as many as 15,000 of its 22,000 forest elephants have been slaughtered; destroyed by China’s lust for ivory and the avarice of its African accomplices.
Minkébé appears impenetrable, virginal, a paradise uncorrupted by man.
But that lush tropical canopy conceals temptation and evil in abundance.
When Manchester-born Lee White took over ANPN in 2009, the agency had no vehicles and 60 staffers controlling 13 national parks and 3 million hectares.
It now has close to 700, and a budget of almost $20m which pays for military training, weapons and vehicles.
Breakfast was a slice of bread, with a plate of rice and fish for dinner.